This week we are shining the light on Jesse Slobodin, FA Uptown’s Gym Manager! You can catch Jesse either eating his body weight in tacos, traveling the world (probably to find good tasting tacos), bouldering at FA Uptown or finding a new route at The Red. As a longstanding member of the Chicago climbing community and an experienced leader of a climbing gym operation, we can’t be more excited to have him at the helm of FA Uptown. Read more about him below, and say hi to him next time you spot him at the gym!
How did you get into climbing?
As a kid, I would terrorize my parents and camp counselors by climbing any tree, fence, or building within arms reach. My mom took the “if you can’t beat them” approach and signed me up for my first climbing class at Evanston Athletic Club when I was ten years old. The rest was history, and I was climbing a few days a week, eventually joining the Youth Team at EAC and competing throughout high school.
I climbed pretty inconsistently in college – mainly just over summer breaks. I got super psyched on climbing after college, went a little overboard, and blew out my wrist with an overuse injury. I wound up taking about two years off, but I have been back in the game (responsibly) since 2013
What do you love about climbing?
Of course, I love the people climbing has introduced me to, and the places it has taken me, but I love climbing itself. The total focus required, trying hard and succeeding (or failing), and finding the subtleties needed to climb at your limit.
I also love seeing other people get psyched on climbing, especially all of the kids I’ve been lucky enough to coach over the years.
Bouldering or sport climbing? Make sure to tell us why.
As long as it involves gross crimping, I am a happy camper. Typically inside you’ll find me bouldering, but I am much more psyched on the outdoor sport. Bouldering helps me maintain a solid base of strength and power, which translates to a better foundation for sports climbing. This is best encapsulated in a Tony Yaniro quote I learned by way of Keith Geraghty – “If you can’t pull a single hard move, what else is left to endure?”
What is your favorite place to climb outdoors? What other outdoor activities do you participate in?
The Red. I didn’t start climbing outside consistently till after college, and my first trip to Kentucky in 2010 ignited my passion for outdoor climbing. I love the typical RRG style, overhung and physical, although some of my favorite lines down there have been vertical (shout out to Orange Juice). The RRG climbing community is awesome – I’ve loved meeting people down there, trading beta with strangers, and seeing people from season to season and getting updates on their projects. Shameless plug for organizations working to keep the RRG a great place to climb – the RRG Climber’s Coalition and the RRG Fixed Gear Initiative
I haven’t done much bouldering outside, only a handful of days, so I would like to get some more outdoor boulders under my belt.
Other activities – Do the 15-minute approaches at the Red count? I do also love biking, slacklining poorly, and getting out on a kayak or SUP when I have the opportunity.
Do you have any particular climbing projects or fitness goals for this year?
I accomplished a pretty big goal last spring sending Paradise Lost for my first 13a. It is a badass climb that I had stared at in the RRG guidebook since my first trip to The Red, so it was awesome to be able to go out and climb it. I have some routes in mind for this fall – a few project level routes I want to check out and a few lines I’ve been eyeing for hard flash attempts. Just waiting for those crispy temps!
As I mentioned above, I am psyched on getting into outdoor bouldering. I’m hoping to get out to visit a friend in Colorado in September. Down the line, I’d like to climb V10. In the meantime, I’m looking to build out my boulder pyramid with a wide base of moderates and conquer my fear of topping out.
What keeps you busy when you’re not climbing?
If thinking about climbing, start at redriverclimbing.com, streaming climbing comps, or listening to/reading training articles and podcasts were acceptable answers, I would write those. Jokes aside, I love biking around the city (You can usually spot me at Critical Mass the last Friday of the month), cooking, eating, and traveling. My girlfriend and I just got back from Mexico City where we attempted (succeeded?) to eat our body weight in tacos every day.
What do you love about Chicago?
It’s vibrant and walkable/bikeable. There is always something going on (Stranger Things pop-up bar!) and an awesome dining scene. Also, tacos!
What is your favorite Chicago spot for food, music, art or culture?
There are too many good restaurants to choose. I love everything from Honey Butter after a session at Avondale to getting bougie down in the West Loop, cocktails at Moneygun, and back to the Maxwell Street Market for Sunday morning tacos. I’m excited to check out the Murakami exhibit at the MCA this weekend, and I also love The Fly Honey Show which rolls around every August.
What is something about you most people don’t know?
I think people probably know this – but I am super uncoordinated when it comes to all things not climbing. For a real good time, watch me try to play basketball.
Anything else you want to say to the FA Community?
Join me for a bouldering session at Uptown and mandatory tacos from Carmela’s!