We are super excited to shine the FA Member Spotlight on Olivia Sappenfield! She’s a perfect example of just how inspiring and talented the FA community is.
Prior to moving to Chicago two years ago, Olivia was doing her part to make the world a better place. While working in a neonatology ward in Peru she discovered that she could impact the lives of others through research and education to shed light on public health issues. Children and infants would come in regularly with preventable conditions, and educating parents and guardians became a large part of what she was tasked with.
For two years prior to moving to Chicago, Olivia lived in West Africa where she worked on a variety of projects on community health and development. Not only was she teaching basic epidemiology at a local hospital and showing staff how to better use data to improve the hospital’s services, she gave monthly presentations on child/infant health, helped establish a library, got into beekeeping, worked in rice fields and helped establish a community garden. Other public health projects this Renaissance woman has been a part of include infant mortality, contraception, child-maltreatment and addressing institutionalized racism.
Today, First Ascent is lucky to have Olivia as part of the community. Since moving to Chicago and joining FA, she’s completed her PhD in Maternal and Child Health Epidemiology at the University of Chicago. Her unique background and education will help her to better affect communities through her research and its impact on health policies.
You can find Olivia at First Ascent Avondale gym crushing frequently on lead – and bouldering when coerced to do so by friends!
Olivia, how did you get into climbing?
I got into climbing accidentally. A really good friend and hero of mine, Radhika, is an avid climber. Just 5-foot-nothing, she was a gymnast early in life, and like most climbers who showed up at events, she would never stop talking about climbing.
One day, Radhika and another friend of mine, Heather, were at a shrimp boil I was hosting, and the topic of rock climbing came up. After much discussion, Heather really wanted to try it again, having done it once before, and I told her I would be her partner. We finally went climbing, and I fell in love with the sport.
What do you love about climbing?
I used to be a year-round swimmer for about 10 years, and one of the things I really loved about swimming is that when you’re in the pool, the water blocks the noise around you, allowing you to focus on how your body feels, your stroke, the rhythm of your pace, and your breathing. These are all similar things you focus on when you’re climbing. I also loved the feel of my muscles stretching, both in swimming and rock climbing. Rock climbing is the first activity since swimming that gives me the same grace, engagement, and completion I love. Just as important, it gets me outside, which gives me peace and grounds me.
Bouldering or sport climbing?
Sport. While I enjoy bouldering, bouldering requires power. Sport requires endurance strategy, and I am better at endurance than at power.
What is your favorite place to climb outdoors?
I’m very attached to places I have great memories, so it’s not just about the quality of the climb but the people I share experiences with.
One of my favorite places is Farley, which is located in western Massachusetts. I have such great memories there, including sending my first outdoor 11a and starting my first 12a project. It’s granite-like rock and is located on private property. You could talk about it, but you couldn’t publish or post pictures of it. It’s a place where everybody knows everyone, and when you arrive, people will show you where all the classic climbs are. It’s a place that has a little bit of everything; sport, multi-pitches, trad.
Do you have any particular climbing goals or projects for the year?
Last summer, I had gone down to the Red in June and saw Mosaic in the Gallery for the first time. In my eyes, it’s a beautiful climb, and a few people have mentioned to me that it’s my style. I would love to get on it this year and hopefully have a project send by next year.
Ultimately, like many rock climbers, I would love to get out to Yosemite and lead a multipitch climb. I don’t know if I’d ever have the courage to do a big wall climb; I don’t know if I’m comfortable sleeping in a bivy, but I’ll make it out there one day.
What keeps you busy when you’re not climbing?
Right now, it’s research. School has taken over my life.
Before grad school however, I had more of a balance. I really enjoy cooking, so I used to do foodie dinner clubs with friends in Boston, made conscious efforts to see plays, concerts, and other non-climbing activities to balance my life, since climbing was a huge part.
I do wish I was traveling more. I used to travel a lot domestically and internationally, but school has sort of stopped the traveling for now.
What do you love about Chicago?
Chicago has a great climbing community.
And the food. Having previously lived in Boston, which in my opinion does not have a great food scene, and before that Atlanta, which does, I’m really glad to find myself in a great food scene again.
What is your favorite Chicago spot for food, music, art, or culture?
Pilsen. While there’s not as much on cocktails, there’s Thailia Hall, great music, really good tacos, and I love the street art. I absolutely love the street art.
What is something about you most people don’t know?
This is an intimidating question. I’m actually intimidated to meet new people. I’d like tho think I fake it really well, but it’s nerve-wracking and scary talking to and getting to know new people or people I don’t know very well.
Anything else you want to say to the FA community?
To the staff: Thank you for creating a climber’s gym and for creating a space for experienced climbers to train and get prepared to go outside. Also, for creating a space for newcomers to come and be mentored by experienced climbers, and for creating a really friendly environment. It’s not overly competitive or overly clique-ish. It’s a great, welcoming place to be. And thank you for creating that space in Chicago, which for the longest time was a desert for climbers.
By: Nari Ho & Gabriel Skvor