This blog by FAmily member Mila Ugryn talks about climbing with friends and with guides. Both are valuable assets in a climber’s life. Mila can be found, mostly at FA Avondale, several nights a week sport climbing with friends, and dipping her toes into bouldering. Like so many of us, she’s eagerly gaining knowledge to climb safely, and in the meantime that means hiring guides so she can enjoy climbing outdoors, learn and be safe at the same time.
Pandora’s Box to Climbing
My first climbing experience was outdoors with friends Zoran and Sasha at Devil’s Lake in Wisconsin. Several years ago a big group of friends came out for hiking and camping, and most of us had zero climbing experience. For me, Zoran and Sasha opened Pandora’s Box to climbing by inviting each one of us to do a route or two. They were welcoming, kind and patient; lending their shoes, teaching about safety and belaying for hours before climbing themselves. Rock climbing didn’t seem as intimidating anymore, when it was two friends teaching us and welcoming us with open arms into the sport.
After that first climb, I was hooked. Back then, however, I didn’t know how committed I could become with only outdoor climbing opportunities available. First Ascent opened a year or two after, which solved the problem of having a consistent place to climb in the city and I was sucked into the climbing community and its culture.
Turkey Day 2016
This year our generous boss at Italian Expo gave us a few days off for Thanksgiving, which meant an opportunity to take a trip and stuff ourselves with turkey in a new place. We chose Boulder, which was the most affordable and interesting place to us, and my heart was overcome with joy when I thought about all the climbing opportunities in Colorado. The night before, we booked our flight, an Airbnb, car and a climbing guide since we didn’t know anyone in Boulder who could take us.
Boulder is a special place, home to some of the most famous climbing stars of United States, and according to some one of the most athletic cities in US. With so many people climbing and doing outdoor activities, competition from climbing companies to get business is intense. After calling several places (the day before Thanksgiving) and trying to book a guide, Jeremiah of Colorado Climbing called back and agreed to take us climbing. 
One of the other companies returned my call later, and inquired about who we’d hired. They didn’t recognize Jeremiah’s company, and mentioned they’ve been in the industry for over 40 years, suggesting perhaps, that their company is more experienced. Their approach made it clear that during the off season every client counts, but it made it for an awkward conversation since I wasn’t about to break my promise to Colorado Climbing.
Classes with Sandy Morris at FA made me feel more comfortable
We were all set for Saturday, and I couldn’t have been more excited. My guide Bob offered to do some rappelling, trad, multi-pitch climbing and anything else my heart desired. Having taken the Gym to Crag classes with Sandy Morris at First Ascent, which teach rappelling made me feel more comfortable when attempting it for the first time outdoors. 
In my opinion and with my experience level, going climbing with a guide in a place where you don’t have rock climbing friends is a must. With this being said, hiring Bob wasn’t the first time I used a guide to climb. While living for a couple of months in Rio de Janeiro last year, without any gear or shoes, I hired a guide who took me on a wonderful climb with a beautiful view of Urca. While my broken Portuguese at the time may have helped me make rock climbing friends who may have taken me for free, I have to say, both experiences with a guide have been very educating.
Guides know the routes, how to keep people safe and intimate knowledge of the rock. This eliminates anxiety and takes away hours of research. Bob took us up a couple of routes at the East Slab and a few at East of the Sun; the hardest route we climbed was a 5.9.
Bob genuinely encouraged me at the crux of each route, taught about trad and multi pitch climbing in between pitches, rappelled me from the last route and encouraged supporting and joining the Access Fund. To top it all off we had scenic view of Boulder through the entire experience.
By: Mila Ugryn
