Looking to make the switch to an assisted braking belay device for lead belaying, but not sure what device to choose or how to make the transition?
The most important thing as you consider making the switch is technique – there’s no replacement for good technique and attentive belaying, and there’s always a slight learning curve when switching to a device that’s new to you. It takes a little bit of practice and sensitivity to feed slack quickly with good technique, so you’ll want to account for that for a session or two.
We dug up videos on the proper usage of the most popular assisted braking belay devices on the market, and we’ve included them below to help you decide which device is best for you. If you’re making a switch, look closely at the instructional video for the device you’re considering and ask yourself: will I feel comfortable with the technique required for this device?
Petzl GriGri
ATC Pilot
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=d0IN08M4pkU
Edelrid Jul
https://vimeo.com/53332541
Mammut Smart
Click UP
Wild Country Revo
Mad Rock Lifeguard
CAMP Matik
Trango Vergo
You can also check out the reviews below as you consider the device that might work best for you:
- Climbing Magazine reviews
- Rock & Ice reviews
- OutdoorGearLab reviews
As far as our preferences go, the Petzl GriGri is the device we teach with at First Ascent. The GriGri is a great choice, and probably the most widely used assisted braking belay device around. If you’re used to belaying with an ATC, and still will outdoors, then the Edelrid Jul or the Black Diamond ATC Pilot offer the most similar slack feeding technique, but use assisted braking tech.
For those looking to get their new device through First Ascent, we’re building in the following initiatives through January 31st, 2019 to help you make the transition:
- 30% off all belay devices we carry in the FA Pro Shop (GriGri, Jul, and ATC Pilot)
- Free belay device rentals (GriGri, Jul, and ATC Pilot)
- Clincis to introduce you to your options for assisted braking belay device options: click here to view the clinic schedule on Facebook.
Let us know which one you’re looking into – we’re here to help you get used to it. And if you have any questions or feedback, feel free to reach out to us at info@firstascentclimbing.com.