Top 5 Outdoor Climbing Destinations Closest to Chicago

If you’re a resident of Chicago and excited about climbing, you’re probably wondering where all the outdoor climbing is. Chicago has some great climbing and bouldering gyms, but it sure is flat. As climbing season approaches and you get ready to go outside, here is a brief synopsis of the 5 most popular climbing destinations closest to Chicago.

RED RIVER GORGE

Fondly referred to as “the Red” or “RRG”, the Red River Gorge is by far the place Midwest climbers most often go to to get their outdoor climbing on. Located in the Daniel Boon Forest in the eastern part of Kentucky, the Red is about a 6.5 hour drive (lose an hour when you cross the time zone) from Chicago and has a multitudeestablished routes with bolts into the walls. Most people camp or lodge at popular destination spots like Miguels, where there is also pretty great, reasonably-priced pizza, but there is also a plethora of other lodging options nearby. Go at the right times and you’ll even run into pro-climbers working their magic on the routes. The Red is where Sasha DiGulian made a name for herself by becoming the first woman to send Pure Imagination.

Popular types of climbing: Sport/Lead climbing. There is some trad, and top-rope climbing if a lead or trad climber establishes it for you. There is some bouldering as well.

Online Climbing Guide: http://www.redriverclimbing.com/RRCGuide

DEVILS LAKE

Located in the heart of Wisconsin (about a 3+ hour drive from Chicago), Devils Lake consists of beautiful hikes on bouldery rocks, and a huge lake smack dab in the middle. If you know where to go, there are some great places to boulder or top rope on all sides, but you’ll need a resource such as Mountain Project or a friend who’s been there before to show you the way. Look out for boulder landings, as some areas have very flat terrain, and others definitely do not.

Popular types of climbing: Bouldering, Trad climbing and Top Rope (you will need to set up your own top rope anchors).

Helpful Guide: Mountain Project (www.mountainproject.com)

JACKSON FALLS

One of the few places to sport climb and boulder in Illinois, Jackson Falls is located in southern Illinois and has on-site camp grounds established. Though not as expansive as the Red, Jackson still contains a great number of well-established routes for climbers of all levels to tackle. It’s also beautiful to check out in the Fall.

Popular types of climbing: Sport/Lead climbing, Top Rope and some bouldering.

HOLY BOULDERS

Also located in Southern Illinois, Holy Boulders is an established place with pretty great sandstone climbing. People mostly come here for bouldering and have a popular bouldering competition held every Fall. Most people drive down to the Holy Boulders, camp outside, and spend the weekend with their crash pads checking out different types of boulder climbs. If you’ve never been here before, the best way to become familiar (aside from going with someone who knows) is to participate or attend their bouldering comp in the Fall. Everything’s labeled and there are signs throughout the place to help you find your way.

Check out this fun video to get a grasp of what climbing at the Holy Boulders will be like:

GOVERNOR DODGE

Located about 45 minutes west of Devils Lake, Governor Dodge is an area that has it all, bouldering as well as some sport climbing in which you can also set up top rope climbing. Governors Dodge, like Devils Lake is a good place to either camp, or make it a day trip.

If you’ve never climbed outdoors before, or have limited experience, check out First Ascent’s Climbing Workshops such as the Gym to Crag session which will help you maneuver the realm of climbing outside. Happy Climbing!