In another installment of “The FAmily travels to climb somewhere awesome” Mila Ugryn and friends get out to Nevada and Utah to pull on some real rock. Sometimes the journey and the things you see along the way are just as magical as the destination. If you have a climbing trip and would like to contribute to the FAmily blog, email us a pitch to: blog@firstascentclimbing.com
What happens in Vegas, goes to Utah:
Nowadays, whether I’m scrolling through Facebook or Instagram, most of my friends from First Ascent are having a great time climbing outdoors. From our home in the flat Midwest, the Chicago climbing community really makes an honest effort to climb outside; even if it’s a four-hour drive to Devils Lake, or the eight hours to “The Red” in Kentucky.
Last weekend, I traveled with friends Zoran and Sasha to Las Vegas and the Utah for a trip we’ve all been anticipating for a long time. Flying into Las Vegas this time, meant climbing not gambling for us. Armed with trad gear, ropes, and sunscreen, we went almost immediately to explore routes to climb on nearby Bridge Mountain (7,003 feet) at Red Rocks. To us it is one of the most impressive, and most elusive summits in the entire Red Rock area.
With a 4am wakeup, we drove the short distance from Vegas and got to the end of a dirt road that would challenge even the most high clearance vehicles. This was the start of the most difficult and beautiful hike in Vegas. The hike gradually grows in difficulty, and only balanced rocks point to continuation of the hike. As we stood on the opposite side of the mountain from where we planned to climb, it became clear we didn’t know a safe approach to go around the mountain. So, we did what most climbers would do, had a sandwich, hid our gear and roped-up to start ascending though cracks and chimneys, which were rated about 5.4 all the way to the summit. Later, Zoran’s smartwatch showed we’d taken 35,000 steps or 17 miles total during out 12 hour trek and climb that day. I didn’t admit to it at first, but it was the most difficult and longest hike I’ve ever been on.
Something like Miguel’s out West?
The next morning we headed to Utah and were hungry for some sports climbing. We visited a special place called Veyo Pool, near St. George, Utah. This private area will soon be renamed as Caldera Canyon, according to its new owners. With natural pool facility, a refreshing river running through, and a variety of nicely bolted routes, this place has the potential to become like Miguel’s Pizza in Red River Gorge, Kentucky. The owners of Veyo Pool/Caldera Canyon have grand plans in mind for the climbing community.
With some sport climbing under our belt from the previous day, we decided to find some red rock to climb. We headed to Snow Canyon in St. George Utah, a special place recommended even by the people on the plane. “Rarely a snowflake to be found,” according to www.utah.com; this canyon was named after its pioneers Lorenzo and Erastus Snow, and has consistent sunshine throughout the whole year. If words like “amazing” and “fantastic” weren’t overused as much as it is these days, Snow Canyon is a true representation of these adjectives with a few to add, like magnificent and majestic. One can find lava, sandstone, red rocks in a fluid relationship with each other throughout the park.
Community at every turn!
After doing some climbing in the shade, and realizing footwork and technique is key, we noticed some climbers on the way out of the Canyon. What are the chances that you meet someone from First Ascent in Utah? Apparently very high, since one of the few climbers we were watching, recognized us from First Ascent. Just a week or so ago, we were talking to Dain about a nice yellow auto belay route to the left of the overhanging section of the comp wall, and here we were – in Utah – chatting about the “Living on the Edge” route they were about to get on. Saying our goodbyes, and wishing each other safe flight back, we ended this weekend with tender feeling that climbing community is large, welcoming and wonderful. And the magnitude of mountains never seizes to humble and inspire.
By: Mila Ugryn